Artful Dodging

After every journey Steph and I take time to wash the oil and sweat off our hands and bodies and take about half an hour of peace and quiet to reflect on what's just happened. During this time a ritual has evolved, one that has now become so important that I look forward to it with childlike anticipation. During our half an hour respite I take out the Michelin map of India I bought in the planning stages, and place a red sticker on the spot we have reached. This may not sound like much, but when you see the journey you have just made, on a scale map, it helps it sink in.

Goa was much over due. The rest and food and drinking was welcomed by both of us with the same gusto in which we lapped up it's beaches. It was in this enchanting state that I tasted one of the most delicious pieces of culinary magic on Gods earth. Take an ordinary piece of Naan dough, stuff it with parmesan cheese and chopped black olives, roast it in a tandori oven, and you will have achieved the ambrosia of all foods. This simple side dish was the most delicious thing I think I have ever eaten. But enough about food.

The journey from Palolem beach in South Goa, took us on to the NH 17 straight down the coast into the state of Karnataka. Not hassled by police or boarder checkings I was fooled into thinking we would make good time. But India decided to test our meagre suspension with some of it's finest potholes. Avoiding such hazards has become an art form, and one that has come with a lot of practice. Thus I have decided to don the temporary title of India's 'Artful Dodger'.

We made it to the temple town of Udupi and set off in search of the Krishna temple and its famous elephants. We were not disappointed, there in the centre of the temple was an elephant and his ruthless nazi trainer, who bowed on a musical cue and was anointed by a priest. For a small offering you can be blessed by the beast. A procedure which involves handing a 5 rupee coin to it's trunk and getting bashed on the head by it. I was brave enough to have a go, but the trainer would not alow us to film it.

From Udupi we drove down the still potholed NH17 and made it to Kannur, where we stayed with a friendly but slightly mad Indian man in his deserted guest house on the cliff. Watching the sunset over the ocean from his roof, in the knowledge we were now in Kerala, our final state was special. It was from here that we set off bright and early to another temple town of Guruvayoor. Slightly inland this town housed another Krishna temple and after being treated to a traditional dance and some murderous elephants in a sanctuary, Steph and I settled into our more than pleasant hotel room, with Alleppey, our penultimate stop in our sights.